Following the journey of Gabrielle (“Coco”) Chanel’s life, the V&A’s “Chanel: Fashion Manifesto” has travelled the globe, from Paris to Tokyo to Melbourne, and now it’s making its home London. The first UK exhibition dedicated to Coco Chanel, this visit is a must for those wanting to delve into the woman behind the iconic fashion house.
The V&A exhibition adds a British touch, uncovering Coco’s relationships with Polo player Arthur “Boy” Chapel, and Hugh Grosvenor, the Duke of Westminster, as well as highlighting the rich tweed history with Britain. I’ve seen the CC logo around Westminster’s lampposts and always jokingly linked it to Chanel. Delving deeper, indeed, the CC was the Duke of Westminster’s ode to Coco.
THE WOMAN BEHIND THE FASHION HOUSE
So often we admire the pieces created by fashion houses, wear them lovingly and create our wishlists. But how often do we know and understand the people behind the designs? Those who started the story? Those who were pivotal in the instrumental early years of a brand?
What struck me by the exhibition is how it traced Gabrielle Chanel’s life and her creation of the fashion house; the jackets, dresses and perfumes were almost secondary to the story and journey. It is a refreshing angle on usual fashion exhibitions, which tend to focus on the clothes and shoes, as opposed to the key people behind the brand. Both styles of exhibitions are interesting to visit, but serve different purposes and provide different experiences. This Fashion Manifesto exhibition shines the light on the woman behind the iconic fashion house, whilst also showcasing some of her famous pieces.
COCO CHANEL
In a true “rags to riches” story, more so than Cinderella’s, Coco came from poverty and built her fashion house from the ground up. Nuns taught her to sew, and she created an opulent fashion house, worn by Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Jackie Kennedy and beyond.
The next time we look at a Chanel bag, pause, and think. Coco demonstrates a woman who grew from rags to riches, quite like the wearer who worked hard, saved up and bought that gorgeous, elusive and defining bag. More than just a Chanel bag, it epitomises hard work and independence. Yes, the prices may be skyrocketing, making them out of reach, but the satisfaction of purchasing the bag after hard work is something else.
SIXTY-TWO TWEED SUITS
Secured behind glass, the prize room showcases 62 tweed suits. Lined in a colour order, blending from blacks to reds to pinks and purples and greens, it’s a mesmerising display. Shelved elusively above head, the tweed jackets are like a children’s toy store, inviting you to reach and grab your favourite prized possession. Which will you pick?
Through playing polo and British sports with the Duke of Westminster and Churchill, Coco Chanel was inspired to use tweed in her collection. She formed a partnership with Linton Tweeds in Cumbria, and so the iconic Chanel tweed blazer was born, now a staple in every woman’s wardrobe.
A SELL OUT EXHIBITION, WITH TICKETS STILL AVAILABLE
The Chanel Fashion Manifesto exhibition is on at the V&A until the end of February 2024. The tickets are currently sold out, but periodically you will see some days and times becoming available. My experience is a case in point. I had planned for my mom to visit, and she asked whether there were tickets available for Chanel. I, begrudgingly, checked, thinking that it would be sold out and what were the chances that the exact day would be available? To my surprise, there were a few evening spots available and, needless to say, we secured the tickets asap. TL; DR – keep checking the website as tickets may likely pop up!
A TRIBUTE TO COCO
Known for her little black dresses, the 2.55 and tweed jackets, Coco Chanel’s fashion legacy lives on. But, few know about the woman behind the pieces, and this exhibition shines the light on the protagonist, the woman behind the fashion house. Coco was many things, but simple, definable and ordinary she was not. She would shape shift, and create her own story. Exceptional, and a woman who created her future and destiny. Thank you V&A and Palais Galliera for creating a journey of the people who make a fashion house. I hope to see more of these hybrid exhibitions, focusing on the people behind the brand.
Have you been to the Chanel exhibition? Did you like how it traced Coco Chanel’s story? Would love to hear your thoughts! Lots of love, Jo xoxo
